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That would basically be a Naylor Superdrive. Thats what the naked is, just built on a Marshall power section. I plan on building this mod at some point.

Here is my V3 with the gain pot relocated to the correct location. This is how the actual BE100 is wired.

Here is my V2 of the HBE

Yes, i'll have to find them

replace c3 with a 0.0047uf (or just tack another 0.0022uf to the existing one) see if that gets you where you want to be. I'll revisit my DS soon, have several projects going at once right now.

I just build a jcm800 (2203) mod about a month ago. It's easily one of my favorites to date.

Nice work. I was in the same situation, I bought a used RM100 no foot switch. I was actually planning to do the same thing as I have several arduinos laying around, I lucked out and found a new in box rf3 footswitch for $50 on ebay.

Nice work. Sounds rad! BTW you can lower the values of r38 and r37 (try 2.7k) to help compensate for the lower voltage. It wont raise the voltage much but it helps it be less saggy and more clear.

PM'd

you can use any of those except the last four columns. SL+ being the best choice.

Awesome, you are welcome. I have only one clean MTS module, and its the "clean" module. So far I have not spent much time on it. I have however replaced all the film caps with orange drop 716p caps. That made a nice improvement. At some point I will sketch out the schematic so I can know what...

No problem, my pleasure.

never tried a kh3, but things you can tweek for taming highs: 1). what tubes? if it has EH 12ax7's (bright tubes) take those out and install some JJ 12ax7s 2). Install a 250pf - 500pf cap in the tube riser board c1t or c2t spot 3). of course c3. I tend to like 0.0022uf there. CrunchBunch...

Yes, and no. I had the bass knob at 1/3, mids at 1/2, and Treb. Dimed It has plenty bass on tap, I just had it rolled back to keep my phone mic from farting out.

Here's a crappy phone recording: https://soundcloud.com/user-864489142/dstest

I have not tried the SL2. The DS is however less muddy, and tighter than a SL+, gain is about the same. If you want less gain you can lower the value of r7. If you want even tighter you can change c8/c9 to 0.0022

I haven't done anything with sw2 yet but looking at the schematic you can do several things here. You could have a selective treble cap. for instance if you put a 500pf in c14 and another 500pf in c15, and jumpered r32 this would give you 250pf, and 500pf treble cap options. It works because...

A solder station is a good thing to have. You also need a desoldering solder sucker. That third kit has one (the long blue tube looking thing) Whatever you go with, make sure you get extra tips, and that the tips are easy to come by when you need to order more.

Yes, on the blue switch use it to switch r7 between 220k, and 100k (or 68k) for high/low input on the red switch use it to switch r31 between 33k (marshall mids) and 100k (fender mids)

I usually use 50v nichicon electrolytic in those spots BTW: I made a tweek to mine, use a 820ohm in r29, sounds better to me.