Supplies and Recommendations?

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Mattfig

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1. Where do you guys get your supplies???

I like mojo electronics, parts express, and small bear electronics among a few others...

2. Would any of you guys have a link to a really good soldering iron that ain't gonna break the bank?

3. Lastly, for those who want to get into modding, what are common supplies to keep on hand?

I have a bunch of pots, caps, resistors, knobs, LEDS, different solders and irons as well as desoldering irons...But no real "bench" to speak of...

I'm half way there with my set up and have the basics but I know many reading this are newbies as we all once were...So if anyone could break it down a bit I'm sure many of us would appreciate it...

Also, what pitfalls are most common and easy to avoid?

Thanks to all who respond...Let's get this forum rollin'!
 
1.) In addition to those already said...

ApexJr.com
EL34World.com
Mouser.com
TedWeber.com
TubeDepot.com

2.) No specific model to recomend but I've had good luck with anything made by Weller. Having said that, I've also had good luck with 20 watt ratshack specials. No opinion on this one from me.

3.) In addition to those already said...
(just a few that always seem to be misplaced or empty when I need them)

multimeter
spare battery for the multimeter
extra leads and clips for the multimeter
spare tubes that are known to be good
spare soldering iron tips of various sizes/shapes
wire strippers
wire cutters
wire (600 volt ptfe 20 gauge is what I usually run out of quickest)
needle-nose pliers
jeweler's screwdrivers
electrical tape
various small brushes
dental pick mirror (whatever it's called)
fan to blow the solder fumes anywhere other than directly in my face where they always want to be

A couple common pitfalls and possible solutions...

1.) melted traces - use a lower watt iron, or lower setting, that's tinned properly and don't resolder any more than absolutely needed because it's just a matter of when the trace finally gives out

2.) overheated caps, resistors, etc - clip a heatsink on the lead between the component and the solder joint

3.) misreading component values - measure the component before installing regardless of what it says or what colors are on it

Some tips from someone who has made a lot of stupid mistakes...

1.) Get a piece of junk broken equipment and practice soldering, desoldering, etc on it until you can do it blindfolded in the dark while taking a dump. Burn those traces instead of ruining your module.

2.) Keep one hand in your pocket whenever possible while working with electricity.

3.) Measure to make sure caps are discharged. Bleeder resistors, unplugged, blah blah blah. Measure it before sticking your hand in there.

4.) Clean your leads before soldering. Scotchbrite, steel wool, sandpaper, etc. Just a couple light scrapes is usually enough.

5.) Practice on that junk broken equipment a little more.
 
Dont' forget
1. Beer
2. Dorky glasses with the lights on them so you can see. Love them.
3. Bandaids.
4. Complete last will and testament.
5. And whenever possible, play something from Led Zeppelin IV.
 
Mattfig said:
1. Where do you guys get your supplies???

I like mojo electronics, parts express, and small bear electronics among a few others...

2. Would any of you guys have a link to a really good soldering iron that ain't gonna break the bank?

3. Lastly, for those who want to get into modding, what are common supplies to keep on hand?

I have a bunch of pots, caps, resistors, knobs, LEDS, different solders and irons as well as desoldering irons...But no real "bench" to speak of...

I'm half way there with my set up and have the basics but I know many reading this are newbies as we all once were...So if anyone could break it down a bit I'm sure many of us would appreciate it...

Also, what pitfalls are most common and easy to avoid?
1: I rarely stray from Mouser or Small Bear.

2: Anything Weller in the 20-25 watt range has served me quite well through the years.

3: I work on a lot of tube gear, both MTS and otherwise, so I stock a ton of parts. That's the essential "must have". Good parts and a variety of them.

I have a complete collection of resistors from 0 ohms to 10M in all wattages from 1/4 through 5+ (if you look at the drop down on the Mouser site, virtually every value in the window). It's not critical, but it is for me when fine tuning things for customers.

I stock about 500 capacitors at any given time, all brands/types/values. Again, for me it's a fine tuning thing.

A quality multimeter is essential. I swear by my Fluke.

An excellent set of tools that you are very comfortable with. I have a specific tools that are used for nothing but modules and amps. They feel like a old glove and that's critical to me when working inside modules with up to 300V and amps with up to 600V inside them.

Good tunes are part of my mix. My iPod provides the inspiration at the the bench. You would be surprised how many times a good module turned into a great one because a song came on the shuffle and made me say "now there's a tone that would be sweet!" I still can't listen to STP yet after building the STP Kore module for Sol! I must have listened to their entire catalog for 2 days straight at the bench.

4: Common pitfalls? Don't work from the top of a module. They were intended to be soldered from the bottom. Never yank a stubborn part to try and remove it, it will never end well. Make sure all your connections terminate cleanly and there are no accidental solder drip connections where there shouldn't be.

Don't try to replicate someone elses work from pictures you may have found or something similar. I fix a lot of modules because of that. There is always something you are missing and it often damages the module.

These modules are actually pretty fragile. You need to exercise care in handling and during assembly/disassembly. It's very easy to damage a pot.

Most importantly, know when something is over your head and when you should call it quits. Much better to be honest with yourself that to damage gear.
 
Add a bottle of Liquid Flux. Liquid flux will allow cleaner solder joints, with the least amount of heating. To clean up soldering reside, and the boards in general use pure alcohol. Safe on all plastics I can think of.
 
For the Dutch (and other europeans) here:

Newtone-online.nl

and

Tonefactory.nl

Have a lot of parts, newtone has mostly electronic parts, tonefactory stocks mostly amp-specific parts (tube-bases, jewel lights, all of that)

There's probably only 2 or 3 Dutchies on here but hey, doesn't hurt to share! :lol:
 
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