Internal Speaker Cab Wire

Just curious if anyone is into rewiring 412 cabs and if so what do you like?

So far I have rewired Marshall and Mesa cabs with some Monster cable. It added lots of clarity but probably a little too shrill. Switched over to the older version of Voodoo Amps 50/50 thicker gauge cable before they switched from using Belden to Mogami. Tighter, bigger bottom, more articulate but perhaps a little dark. Lately i've found that i like the clarity, fidelity, and balance of Mogami more for guitar and pro audio applications so i'm thinking about rewiring the cab once more. Considering Mogami 3103, 2921, or 3082. These are anywhere from 12-14 ga. I know Bogner wires with 10 gauge. For the guys who say it doesn't matter, use a lamp cord i totally respect that but i truly hear a difference that matters.

Would be very interested in any input. Thanks

Interesting...never thought of that as a relevant factor. I always "*** out of you and me'd" that it was something standardized and/or considered in production. (Ie:best for what's loaded in the cab type thing) seems like a good business model anyway, now you've raised an eyebrow

I'm a fan of Mogami... In fact I can recall it being a point of pride for studio cats to claim they wired up their studio with Mogami years back.

It's good stuff. If you can get the larger wire gauge, go for it if the price differential isn't prohibitive. You're not needing that long of a run really.

It certainly makes a difference just like your speaker cable or guitar cable would. The Mogami stuff either way is dirt cheap-about $.80-$1.40 per foot. Typical cab needs 7 feet. I was just more so interested in if anyone had a preference of of which Mogami type is popular in the boutique world these days.

Snake oil.

Gauge does matter, but only in large or high wattage runs.

Now, a high impedance unbalanced run would make a difference, and the same with an xlr run (at a large distance), and we'll talk. Speaker level? Nah. Durability, flexibility, and crosstalk are all that matters. There are many more factors in a rig to worry about.

Oregon said:

I'm a fan of Mogami... In fact I can recall it being a point of pride for studio cats to claim they wired up their studio with Mogami years back.

It's good stuff. If you can get the larger wire gauge, go for it if the price differential isn't prohibitive. You're not needing that long of a run really.

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I think Mogami got its fame firstly because of its flexibility and ease to work with when soldering. Sound quality was an added benefit.

Respectfully while it may not be a huge difference to some i enjoy the quest for that last 10% of perfection. If it didn't matter Bogner, Voodoo, Splawn and many other high end companies wouldn't bother to use better thicker wire and offer custom options. If it didn't make a difference then I would not hear the difference but i do. The difference between little skinny stock Marshall cab wire and the Voodoo wire actually makes as much difference as the loose tight switch on most of my modules because of the capacitance. So if that is not a huge difference for you i totally understand.

It's funny though because Bruce has been telling me for years that there is no way i can hear the difference in many of the little things. "Only dogs can hear that" I say Woof!

Thanks for the input though.

As they say, it's only worth what you'll pay for it.

$1,000 12ga cable should sound about as good as $1 12ga

I must be deaf, because I can't hear the difference between a 25ft run of 16 gauge and a 1ft run of 12 gauge. I hear a huge difference in a new set of strings though...

I read an interesting comment about this the other day, paraphrasing:

All these products are focussed on "preserving your signal" and making sure zero degradation happens.

Now take two things in mind:
- Almost all tones we chase were made (or at least based on amps made) in the 60s, 70s, even 80s with none of this, some with even pretty "crappy" parts compared to current production standards.
- You have all this beautiful "signal preserving" stuff ... and then you run it through a whole lot of distorting gain stages, maybe even a pedal or two that use very thin wires for your signal to go through.

How much effect can these things then have? And is that effect even really what you are after?

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Don't get me wrong, a good cable like spectraflex or monster will definitly be better than the $2 cable that comes with any cheapish guitar .. but the way from "good" to "great" to "perfect" is a road to a fantasy place, lined with snake-oil salesmen and full of holes in the science of it all. :lol:
Don't even get me started about the road signs or asking directions.. :roll:

I think that speaker cable may have "an effect", but to me it sounds like a degradation in tone.
Line6 have "cable tone" on their wireless units, basically a cap that dulls it down a bit, because if they didn't the tone would be "too true" and people would wine about shrillness.

You don't want to hear all the highs that are in an amp after gainstaging. Try plugging your PA into your effects loop send and you'll know what I mean.

Yep. Guitar to first buffer is most important. Everything else is just a ripple in an ocean.

Good with reliability trumps every time. I prefer Canare gs6, Mogami 2524, or Gepco XB20UB with Neutrik slim jacks. Yes, these all sound different, due to capacitance. After that first pedal, they all sound the same, even speaker cables.

I can sell you some great pebbles that transform room acoustics.

Old thread, but had to share:

I was feeling tweaky this afternoon and had to tinker. I ripped out the 18awg and input jacks from my Tweaker 112 cab, drilled a new hole, installed a locking Neutrik jack, and soldered some Redco 12/2 12awg speaker wire directly to the speaker...

Let's just say that punch, clarity, touch sensitivity, and transient response all improved. Almost like a new set of strings. The cab, while sounding good, sounded kinda boxy before. Now it's clear and punchy.

I did the same to my rm50 combo but didn't notice as much change. I think it lied not so much in the wire upgrade, but in ripping out the egnater pcb jacks.