DIY mods for new MTS owner

Synergy/MTS Forum

Help Support Synergy/MTS Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jameshewitt95

New member
Joined
Feb 9, 2016
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Australia
So I recently acquired a MH100 with a few modules. I've found I really like the sounds of the stock 1086 and Recto, but I also have a Blackface, XTC and Ultra Lead that I'm not as keen on.

I was wondering what sorts of things, other than the mods listed on the two Grailtone articles (dirty and clean modules), that I can do to give the others a reason for me to swap to. Some mods for ones I already like would be appreciated too.

I would send them off to be modded, but I kinda want to give it a go myself. I also don't have the money to spend on [awesome] things like that.

For my live setup, I use the 1086 as kind of a lead tone (setup to sound match the Recto), the Recto as my rhythm tone and the Blackface as a clean tone. I have yet to do the R1 mod to that.

I use an Ibanez RGD320Z with EMG 81/85 tuned to Drop A for my live playing, but I also use a stock RG8, EX140 (Ibanez CAP-VK pickup) and a SG knockoff with the other CAP-VK pickup I have. (the CAP pickups came out of my RGD). The SG actually changes the sound from a rather heavy sounding, kinda face melting metal sound (from the RGD) to a high gain rock sound, which I quite like, so the guitars I have really change the sound of the amp.

I do plan on using the 8 string live, and until I can get a hold of at least a new bridge pickup, I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations as to what I can do to make that keep it's tone. My current solution is moving the Recto gain from about 6 to 10, raising the treble and raising the master presence from 12 o'clock to 3-4 o'clock. This is ok, but still not brilliant on the low F.

Things like, an alternative to the bright switch (but still using the bright mode), swapping some components to allow for more versatility would be what I'm after. I have contemplated adding additional switches and knobs, but I might wait until I am a bit more experienced with the modules themselves.



For those interested, I will list my control settings as Gain/Bass/Mids/Treble. All running 100% density and 12 o'clock presence. And yes, I have a "tube screamer" of sorts in front.

I run my 1086 at 7/6.5/6/6.5 with gain boost and mid switch left. This produces a more liquidy, higher gained sound of my Recto setup, imo.

I run my Recto at 6/5/6.6/5 with bright on. And for the 8 string 10/5/6.5/7.5 with density cranked to 3-4 o'clock. (As mentioned above)
 
They are simply tube guitar preamps, so learn about tube guitar preamps in general, and then you can build/modify anything you like.

Some things to know...

a) Coupling caps control low-end through the various stages.

b) Gain-stage plate and cathode resistors control gain-stage gain and biasing.

c) Plate and cathode bypass caps control gain-stage freq response.

d) Tone stack caps and pots control the tone controls.

e) Bright cap controls the brighness of the input post chassis V1.

f) Chassis V1 is a gain stage in the host, module V1a+b are gain stages while Module V2a is a gain stage, and module V2b is a cathode follower.

There's lots of tube preamp tech data online and there is a lot more to know no doubt (though the cool thing is that it's all done for you including the power supply stuff via the donar module!), Google is your friend etc, have fun and BE SAFE as there's lethal voltage in these thing when they're plugged into their host!
 
Anyone really interrested in how tube circuits work might want to read this...

https://robrobinette.com/How_The_5E3_Deluxe_Works.htm

...it's a start.
 
Top