Dirty Sanchez MTS mod based on Dirty Shirley

Synergy/MTS Forum

Help Support Synergy/MTS Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
You can use a electrolytic capacitor in that position (make sure you get the polarity right). Use a 50v one. They are much smaller than a film capacitor but can only be used in certain parts of the preamp circuit (C6, C7 and C13 are such locations).
 
See how you go. The holes in the PCB for C6, C7 and C13 are actually smaller than for the other components. You may have trouble getting the leads to go through. Don't force it if they're tight.
 
He has an older board version so the holes for c6/7/13 are the same size as the other holes.

CrunchBunch said:
See how you go. The holes in the PCB for C6, C7 and C13 are actually smaller than for the other components. You may have trouble getting the leads to go through. Don't force it if they're tight.
 
withmittens said:
got the parts. That .47uf is massive

I usually use 50v nichicon electrolytic in those spots


BTW: I made a tweek to mine, use a 820ohm in r29, sounds better to me.
 
As I start to plan the mod I wonder what I can do with the 2 additional switches that are already installed. Is there anywhere to route them to offer up some interesting options?

Mid boost, bass boost? gain boost? High/Low input switch?

It would be cool if they were usable, any ideas?
 
Yes, on the blue switch use it to switch r7 between 220k, and 100k (or 68k)
for high/low input

on the red switch use it to switch r31 between 33k (marshall mids) and 100k (fender mids)


withmittens said:
As I start to plan the mod I wonder what I can do with the 2 additional switches that are already installed. Is there anywhere to route them to offer up some interesting options?

Mid boost, bass boost? gain boost? High/Low input switch?

It would be cool if they were usable, any ideas?
 
nice, thanks for that. I'll have to look at some other mods to see how that's done

I think I need two red switches, would be the easiest. The red switch would replace the two caps with resistors and wire the switch leads into R31. Same for R7

I think the blue switch could have one end of each resistor to the outside posts on the switch and the other end of each resistor going to one spot of R7 while the switch lead would go on the other side of R7. that would mean both resistors would be making contact with the board.....not gonna work....?

Two red switches....
 
My soldering tools are a piece of crap. I need something that won;t destroy this board. I"m looking at a few things....

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1476489910&sr=1-7&keywords=soldering+iron

http://www.amazon.com/X-Tronic-3020-XTS-Digital-Display-Soldering/dp/B01DGZFSNE/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1476489910&sr=1-14&keywords=soldering+iron

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1ISGH0?psc=1

the first two seem standard, the third may just be a bunch of extra junk....

any thoughts?
 
Id recommend you go with the digital solder station

I have something similar to that.

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Line-70w...6536930&sr=1-19&keywords=radioshack+soldering

It works very well.

You do need things like tiny needle nose pliers and etc. and that 3rd kit does seem like it has some nice picks and etc in it, but the solder iron is not nearly as nice. I'd get the tools separately. You won't even use most of the tools in that kit.

Something like this is really helpful too

https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack®-...6536930&sr=1-17&keywords=radioshack+soldering
 
A solder station is a good thing to have. You also need a desoldering solder sucker. That third kit has one (the long blue tube looking thing)

Whatever you go with, make sure you get extra tips, and that the tips are easy to come by when you need to order more.


withmittens said:
My soldering tools are a piece of crap. I need something that won;t destroy this board. I"m looking at a few things....

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1476489910&sr=1-7&keywords=soldering+iron

http://www.amazon.com/X-Tronic-3020-XTS-Digital-Display-Soldering/dp/B01DGZFSNE/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1476489910&sr=1-14&keywords=soldering+iron

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1ISGH0?psc=1

the first two seem standard, the third may just be a bunch of extra junk....

any thoughts?
 
I ordered a solder pump.

F'd up a trace on C9 when I decided to go ahead and move forward. ******* silver ring came up off the board. Probably the sloppiest thing I've done. I tried to fix it by adding solder and make a solid bridge to the trace but it's still loose.

I guess I might as well move forward when I get the pump but if anything that trace will F me in the end. Looking into how to repair it. I have about 8 more components left to do

If I can get it then back solid good, if not it was a good try at something new. a bit tougher than building a pedal kit.
 
Capt_Tippy said:
Just use a wire to jump the trace

this means to run a wire from the leg at the bad trace ring to the next point on the trace route? In this case it would go from c9 to R25?
 
I'm considering trying this mod out. I'd love to hear a clip of it from one of the guys that did it. I have an Egnater SL2 that is a bit much gain for me. I think the DS mod would be more my style, but I'm curious if it's a little loose and muddy in the low end based on the values I see.
 
I have not tried the SL2. The DS is however less muddy, and tighter than a SL+, gain is about the same. If you want less gain you can lower the value of r7. If you want even tighter you can change c8/c9 to 0.0022

bbaug14 said:
I'm considering trying this mod out. I'd love to hear a clip of it from one of the guys that did it. I have an Egnater SL2 that is a bit much gain for me. I think the DS mod would be more my style, but I'm curious if it's a little loose and muddy in the low end based on the values I see.
 
Top