Soldering question

Synergy/MTS Forum

Help Support Synergy/MTS Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
M

Mailman1971

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
1,357
Reaction score
0
Location
MICHIGAN
Hi Pete or anyone out there that can help. I am going to upgrade my Output transformer in my RM100 to a Mercury and just wanted to know if I needed to use a special type of solder or flux when doing the job. I done a lot of solder jobs in the past but nothing like inside the amp. Any info is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in Advance,

Dan
 
60/40 Rosin core solder should do it. I usually use a solder sucker or desoldering gun and then, if necessary, desoldering braid to clean up the
PC board traces. Use a temperature controlled iron and use enough heat but not too much. Practice on a scrap board first. The idea is to not apply
too much heat for too long so you don't lift the trace off the board. You can melt a small drop of solder on the tip and then apply that to the connection which will melt the solder faster. Hope this helps! Pat L.
 
What he said. Might also consider getting some shrink tubing (can get it at radio shack) to put on the ends of any soldered connections to make it a little neater looking. You'll need a drill too because you will need to drill new mounting holes I think... Soulinsane would know for sure, but I seem to recall the new transformer set needed that.

Pete
 
Mailman1971 said:
Hi Pete or anyone out there that can help. I am going to upgrade my Output transformer in my RM100 to a Mercury and just wanted to know if I needed to use a special type of solder or flux when doing the job. I done a lot of solder jobs in the past but nothing like inside the amp. Any info is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in Advance,

Dan
Click to expand...
I expect a full report on my desk first thing in the morning :wink: Im very close to picking up a mercury myself. Lets us know how it went. And how it sounds too. :)
 
Thanks guys for all the info. Starting out with just the output tranny and will move later into a new choke or the Power transformer. I just picked it up from RD/Steve and should get it within a week or so. Not sure when I am going to tackle it but will be in the near future. Hardest part for me was taking the 1st step and finally getting a new transformer.
What is it.....Rome wasnt built in a year?? haha
Thanks again!

Dan
 
I have the same OT in one of my RM100's. No soldering required, just a few insulated crimp on spade terminals. Several of the wires go to locations that already have these connectors there and the other 3 wires use them just fine. I gig this amp all the time and it is rock solid. The only thing to watch for it the connections at the Impedence Selection switch. That thing can come apart REALLY easily, so do not pull on it.
 
Re: crimp on connectors. For a few years I assembled switching components for aerospace/military use. In any application, as in a wiring harness, where high reliability is needed, and the wires are subject to strain or flex, crimp connectors are used, not solder. When you solder a wire, it becomes inflexible and rigid where there is solder. This is good for components soldered to a pc board because you want them to stay put
and there's no pulling or flexing force on them. This is NOT good for a wire connection, especially for a heavier gauge wire like from a transformer. It's better to get a proper crimping tool, made for the type connector you are using and crimp it properly, than to solder the wire in the connector. A soldered wire in a crimp connector will break more easily.A crimp connector is NOT an attempt to be cheap.
By the way, the quality of work and design in the MTS series is excellent,
based on my experience with the work I did.
Hope this helps! Pat L.
 
Solder wick, alligator jaw clamps, 60/40 solder (I prefer to use lead free), shrink tubing and a flashlight are the cheaper things that make soldering alot easier.
 
Ok Guys....going to be putting in the Mercury Output Transformer today. Thing looks awesome "Chrome cover" and that sucker is HEAVY! Getting a little Assitance from my Uncle whom is a Certified Electrician so I feel a little more at ease with the Job. Not going with the clips but going to be directly soldering the leads to the board. Will give some good review when its done and the tone differences. Thanks for all the info for You PETE and everyone else thru the years on this awesome amps. Everyone have a good weekend,
Dan
 
It went in like a CHAMP! Sounds PERFECT! Only had to drill 2 holes. No problems. Big tone difference in the amp. Made the Presence and Depth and effects/master volume knobs VERY SENSITIVE now though. Just turn them a little and its a BIG CHANGE. That will take some getting used to. Love it love LOVE IT!! :D
 
Mailman1971 said:
It went in like a CHAMP! Sounds PERFECT! Only had to drill 2 holes. No problems. Big tone difference in the amp. Made the Presence and Depth and effects/master volume knobs VERY SENSITIVE now though. Just turn them a little and its a BIG CHANGE. That will take some getting used to. Love it love LOVE IT!! :D
Click to expand...

Congrats! The Mailman Transformer Mod! :D
 
whats the low end like now?? i know youve owned alot of amps..


im lookin for NO sag and ssssssuuuuuppppeeeerrrr tight lows...did it do it, or allow the Depth knob to actually do it?
 
okstrat said:
Mailman1971 said:
It went in like a CHAMP! Sounds PERFECT! Only had to drill 2 holes. No problems. Big tone difference in the amp. Made the Presence and Depth and effects/master volume knobs VERY SENSITIVE now though. Just turn them a little and its a BIG CHANGE. That will take some getting used to. Love it love LOVE IT!! :D
Click to expand...

Congrats! The Mailman Transformer Mod! :D
Click to expand...
Thanks Pete,
it really did make a noticeable differnce in the tone and overall improvement on how the amp performs. Cant say it add more low end but it did tighten everything up quite a bit. And I have that #1 spot is open and waiting for the 1086 to come on home! My ULTIMATE killer metal tone! I been playing a Ultra XL that Friedman modded but it dont hold a candle next to your modded 1086!! Now that is going to bring the house down! :D Cant wait for that bad boy!! 8)
 
kc2eeb said:
60/40 Rosin core solder should do it. I usually use a solder sucker or desoldering gun and then, if necessary, desoldering braid to clean up the
PC board traces. Use a temperature controlled iron and use enough heat but not too much. Practice on a scrap board first. The idea is to not apply
too much heat for too long so you don't lift the trace off the board. You can melt a small drop of solder on the tip and then apply that to the connection which will melt the solder faster. Hope this helps! Pat L.
Click to expand...
 

Share this page

Similar threads

C
RM100 Mains Fuse / Mains Input Connector/Transformer Wiring
Replies
2
Views
1K
j4q0
J
E
?! Fryette GP4+ !?
Replies
1
Views
2K
buddachile
B
R
rm100 Head (MM trans)
Replies
2
Views
2K
Rilke
R
L
[No title]
Replies
0
Views
1K
LuxxtoneBoy
L
R
RM 100 CAPACITOR CHANGE THREAD
Replies
2
Views
5K
Rilke
R

Latest posts

Top