My MTS module mod - involved drilling! :)

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okstrat

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Got my Randall today... I really like it. However, I could see some situations where I would want the spongier/sloppier attack, and sometimes a tighter sound - all from the same module. What could I do?

MTSpetemod.jpg


I got a spare faceplate with the amp - it only came with two modules, so the previous owner had a blackface plate that he used to fill the hole. So, I used it as my 'template' and added a switch between the gain and bass pot. It's the input cap - I put a .0022 and a .001, and can switch between either at will. One really nice thing about this is that if I want to switch caps again, it's a LOT easier than soldering on a board - a switch can take a lot more heat. To drill the faceplate I took the entire thing apart. Even though it says 'blackface' on the front, it's really a Brown. I didn't drill the Brown faceplate yet because if I didn't like how this worked, the faceplate would hide the extra holes in the front metal frame.

I'll probably do my recto module like this for sure - I like how it sounds, but it's a little sloppy for rhythms. I'd like to be able to go back and forth at will. Here are a few random notes for anyone else who thinks about doing this:

The faceplate is HARD to drill. I used a drill press and one of my older drill bits was glowing red hot. Went and bought a $30 set of super hard drill bits, and it still was hard to work. The chassis/frame was no big deal.

Take the PCB out of the frame before drilling! You can get to the PCB easier then too, and solder it properly.

As a matter of fact, don't put the faceplate back on and reassemble the module and test it with the switch. If you do like it, then drill the faceplate. Just be sure you're good enough with the drill to match up the holes.

The mini toggle switch I used has about 1/16" of an inch between pots. It's really tight - I'd recommend measuring twice and cutting/drilling once. You'll want to put it about even with the gain and bass pots, because the top of the module front fits flush against the amp.

I was able to go tighter than stock but with a little sag to tighter with very little sag on the Brown module. I might go a little higher for more sag, but I really dig the module with the .001 on there.

I think sometime soon I'll be putting a structure switch on my XTC module. BTW, do you guys think I am totally destroying the value of these modules since I'm drilling holes? Just curious.

Pete
 
That's pretty cool man! Good idea. Nice that you can switch the caps back and forth for more versatility. As for the value, who cares......unless you are worried about selling the module. I myself wouldn't care about a mod like that.
 
Sounds cool man. POST SOME COMPARISON CLIPS!!! :D

In terms of value, I would probably pay a bit more for one with that mod.
 
thanks for the kind words guys. Hardest part was drilling that damned faceplate... I may be taking mine off on any that I mod and letting my bud who runs a metal shop drill the things. :)

Clips are coming... problem is, my good cab is with our PA gear, and all I have here is a 2x12 ADA split stack and a custom 1x12 sealed cab that goes with an 18 watt marshall I built. I might give it a shot though, just to show the difference. It's more in how it feels than anything, but my wife noticed and even commented that one sounded more congested and the other one was tighter, before I told her what the switch did. I wanted to kiss her for that.

Pete
 
id like to see some way to change those settings with a footswitch.
great idea I think.. make that switch mod, but wire it into some sort of hard footswitch.
Patent the change and sell it to Randall.... or at least trade them the idea for some free gear!
:twisted:
 
My recto is next to go under the knife... I like it stock for leads, but tighter would be better for rhythms. So far I'm loving my amp!

Pete
 
What cap does the module have stock? I've bought a brown module 2 weeks ago and I love it. Just haven't did a cap mod yet.

Should i do it? and what cap ?

thanks
 
I wonder what those IC's and transistors are doing? The transistors are possibly 12 or 6 volt regulators for the filament voltages, but then there is the big heatsink at the back. I have no idea about the IC's, you'd think 4 gain-stages provided by the 12ax7's would be plenty... Makes me think they are doing something else.

Can anyone share some chip numbers? Maybe they are part of a slow rise voltage circuit to prevent damaging the cards.
 
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