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kc2eeb said:
to melt RoHS solder I melt some 60/40 on the iron tip and use that to melt the RoHS stuff. It gives a better heat transfer. 30 watts is about right.
Go to www.precisionmechanisms.com
I was their chief assembler and factory liaison.

+1. It's a good way to achieve any kind of efficiency.
 
Matt- for your Recto modification, do you recommend brick walls for the patented smashing process, or something with a little more give? Would stucco add texture to the tone?
 
crankyrayhanky said:
Matt- for your Recto modification, do you recommend brick walls for the patented smashing process, or something with a little more give? Would stucco add texture to the tone?

Hmmm...Tough call...The smashing process can be tricky as it is a new development for MTS...I would avoid stucco as that seems to add too much treble...Brick is ok but makes for a very uniform tone...If you want a true raw, organic sound- you gotta use a pole...Mine was an old stripper's pole from the sleazy "gentleman's" club down the street...I won't ever wash it as it's got just the right amount of lubricant, sweat, and stripper stink to make my Erecto happy...

Oh yeah, if you go the stripper pole route, make sure you buy some monostat first...The Erecto had a nasty yeast infection that took away a little bit of the bite...But it's almost fully recovered now...Thanks for asking!
 
Well......I shot a phone once.....No, really........
...It was old, and it didn't work.........It was time.
 
SacredGroove said:
kc2eeb said:
to melt RoHS solder I melt some 60/40 on the iron tip and use that to melt the RoHS stuff. It gives a better heat transfer. 30 watts is about right.
Go to www.precisionmechanisms.com
I was their chief assembler and factory liaison.

+1. It's a good way to achieve any kind of efficiency.

Thanks a lot. Makes a lot of sense. Are you talking about just tinning the tip with 60/40 or actually melting extra solder onto the tip?
 
Not just tinning. Melt a small amount on the tip so there is a small drop of solder then hold the melted solder to the lead free joint. Lead free is basically
tin. You get a better heat transfer to begin with and when the lead alloys with the tin, the melting point lowers.
 
That's it!!! I just tinned it before. No wonder it was a pain. I should have asked more question of the folks on the soldering line. I usually only inspect assemblies after they are all soldered up and ready to go. Mil-spec and medical stuff is nice because there is no restriction on hazardous materials so the lead flows freely. Nice clean joints and really pretty boards and harnesses.
 

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