Make Malcolm brighter without adding gain?

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hunter

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I was wondering, would like to try
-make the module brighter without adding gain, ideally preserving the low end
-shift mids higher to a more marshall like frequency, current mid pot works more on lower mids

I do like the structure of the gain and the tone quality, it's just a bit dark, so I end up dialing Bass at 10 o'clock, Mids at 9 o'clock, treble at 3 o'clock. Would be nice to have some more balance.

Are there some standard caps/resistors to look at and how to change the values?
 
Look in the Tone Stack. You'll likely want to change the resistor and cap in the treble bpart to fit the JCM800 stack more. And using a Silver Mica for said cap is great for brightening up the sound. Might also try a metal film resistor for that spot.
 
When you say tone stack, are you referring to the cap directly behind each pot? Or the c's and r's throughout the pcb ? :shock:
 
Here's a little trick.. I kind of hum and haw my way through what i see on the PCB so what i do is download the available layouts for the various modules (SL+, brown, plexi,tweed) and find one that i know is better balanced and then base values off of that. Compare your module to what you see in the Brown or plexi layout and change resistors or caps accordingly one at a time to see what the effect is on the tone. c13 to the brown value of 22uf really gave me a mid boost and some crunch on my brahma. What value is in either C1 or C2? Sometimes they change 3 resistors and a cap and call it a new module.. so far looks like there are only 3 (maybe 4) diff base PCB's that Randall worked from in designing their modules.
 
Th Malcolm doesn't have tons of treble for sure.

What I do with some modules is take the gain down and add a mild clean boost in front. That tends to put the mids a little more forward and take off some of the bass. Cheap DIY solution. Not practical for everybody but since I have my clean boost (maxon od-9 racked and switchable, it works great for me.

For the record, I use that solution with a RR59 module and it really helped me nail a very tight tone

Alternatively, you could try the 1987. It is not really a high gain module, much less that one woul think for a Scott Ian main OD module. It has a lot of useable gain from crunch to overdrive and right after the RR59 it's my second favourite marshall crunch module.
 
When you're trying to figure out which resistors and capacitors belong to the tone stack, perhaps my Component Spreadsheet will help. Here's the message that includes the links for you to download the spreadsheet:
http://mtsforum.grailtone.com/viewtopic.php?t=13007&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20

First, look at the PCB part number on your Malcolm. Then, find a module with the same part number on the spreadsheet. You can then compare resistor and capacitor values to figure out likely candidates for modding.

Hope this helps.
 
Post a pic of the board... compare it to the master of all plexi modules the BRAHMA and go from there. I love that freakin module. It is all about C3. That is where the magic happens on that module.
 
Deisel401 said:
When you say tone stack, are you referring to the cap directly behind each pot? Or the c's and r's throughout the pcb ? :shock:
The network of resistors and capacitors after the last preamp triode is considered the tone stack. it is the section of passive filters that control the gain of certain frequencies. The potentiometers are used to vary the gain. It isn't really confined to a specific section of the PCB. If you want to find out what caps and resistors make up the tonestack you would have to map out the circuit board (only the part after V2). To fine out the effect of each component you would have to learn more about filters, tone stacks, and the gain stages the precede the tone stack.

The rest of the resistors and capacitors are associated with the gain stages themselves and other sections that make the modules function properly. The components that make up the gain stages also contribute to the tone of the module (i.e. what frequencies are cut/boosted). I recommend finding a book on preamps to learn more. I've posted recommended links and books on a previous thread. I hope i have cleared it up a little bit.


To the topic at hand...considering what i have said about tone shaping it is evident that there are many different ways to boost the treble of the module. Some of them involve the tone stack but you can also look at the cathode bias circuits, anode load circuits, gain stage coupling circuits, and the pre-gain stage circuit (bright switch/gain pot).

To shift the mid range you should look for the filter in the tone stack that controls the mid range frequencies and change the value(s) to satisfy your tastes. There are simple equations that you can use to find out what values will work based on the filter arrangement. You should be able to find these online.

I think a formal definition of gain should be mentioned. The gain of a circuit is defined as the ratio of a circuit property from input to output. In amplifiers this is usually voltage. Therefore the gain of any circuit is simply:
Gain=Output Voltage/Input Voltage=Vout/Vin

Now because the guitar input is composed of many different frequencies and the gain stages themselves introduce other frequencies (harmonics) the gain of the preamp is going to be different for each frequency. This depends on the component values used. For example after V2 the output may yield a +3dB boost in treble frequencies, a +6dB boost in midrange frequencies, and a -3dB cut in bass frequencies. It gets more complicated than this but for simplicity this is basically how it works.

Anyway my point is that the term gain has been associated with distortion but in actuality distortion is merely a result of manipulating the gain characteristics of the vacuum tubes. Distortion or clipping is a result of the output signal exceeding the limit of the tube. In other words the gain of the circuit is higher than the threshold for clean amplification. Therefore distortion is a result of gain but gain does not always generate distortion.

My other point is that it is probably best at this point that you look at the tone stack for your tone manipulation. While it can be done in the gain stages, unless you know exactly how they are designed (both in general and for the specific case) it is best to leave the gain stages alone.

Before you turn on the soldering iron have you tried the presence knob? I know on my RM80 if it is below 3 o'clock then my tone is unbelievably hollow. It sounds like there is no treble range at all.

One final note. If i have presented any incorrect or partial information then please correct me. I am still learning about audio tech and have taken a several month break so i may be misinformed. If you have any questions then let me know.

Take Care,
John
 
Before you turn on the soldering iron have you tried the presence knob? I know on my RM80 if it is below 3 o'clock then my tone is unbelievably hollow. It sounds like there is no treble range at all.

ah men brother.. my lynchbox is the exact same way. I suspect a diff pot value or presence cap is the reason for this and that there was inconsistency in quality control at the randall factory.

Furthermore, i suspect the poster is not going to be able to do as much with the info you provided.. I think like most of us, he needs reference points on the PCB. For instance, bright cap C1 C2, after V2 being what after the 2nd preamp tube on the board? as there are already a fixed stage within the amp, this might be misleading. Ya gotta talk noob language and reference C# or R# as a reference :)
 
Kapo_Polenton said:
Before you turn on the soldering iron have you tried the presence knob? I know on my RM80 if it is below 3 o'clock then my tone is unbelievably hollow. It sounds like there is no treble range at all.
Furthermore, i suspect the poster is not going to be able to do as much with the info you provided.. I think like most of us, he needs reference points on the PCB. For instance, bright cap C1 C2, after V2 being what after the 2nd preamp tube on the board? as there are already a fixed stage within the amp, this might be misleading. Ya gotta talk noob language and reference C# or R# as a reference :)
Ya i figured that would be the case...though i can't help but share my knowledge of tube amps. I started learning in July but had to take a break b/c of college. It was kinda like a review for me. I have several books to study...i should get back on that asap. It is a very interesting topic.

The best advice i can give is to map out the PCB after the V2 and determine how that part of the circuit works. Once you know how it affects the tone you can change the components to meet your desired result. Make sure you know what the terminal on the tube are attached to internally. You want to follow the circuit connected to the cathode of the second triode. I have come to understand that tone stacks use the cathode follower configuration. There are several basic tone stack configurations and are basically composed of several passive filters. If you need help figuring out what is going on then i am willing to take a look once you map it out. Essentially you will have to reverse engineer the tone stack and determine what components need to be changed and what values they need to be. There will be math involved if you want to get it right. There will probably be some guess work too.

Unless someone has already done this themselves and is willing to share the information, you will have to start from scratch. This shouldn't be viewed as a bad thing...i personally would view this project as fun and interesting. The component spreadsheet posted earlier will probably help as well but i believe it is safer to learn how the circuit works before you do any work. It can get complicated but if you learn to view it as a set of simple blocks with each block composed of basic components (resistors and capacitors) it becomes a bit easier. First you learn how the components work individually, then you learn how they work in the blocks, and then you learn how the blocks work together. At the end you will know how the entire circuit works. I hope this helps a little. I have no practical experience with modding and certainly no experience with this particular module so this is basically all i can provide. If you want me to recommend some sources for information or need help figuring something out on the PCB then feel free to ask. Good luck.
 
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