Different density/presence boards

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GuitarGuyLP said:
This is interesting. I have an older RM50 combo, and I am getting a new RM50 head on Tuesday. I am going to compare the two boards. I think that my combo has the older style board. It does not make too much of a difference. I will check, and post pics, and pot, and cap values.

If you don't mind posting the serial# for reference? Really itching to get RM50 head.
Thanks!
 
Both RM50 combo's I had were dark and boomy. Neither RM100's I had were.

With that being said, running a modeler (Tonelab LE and a RP1000) into the power amps, the RM50's sounded better. They seemed to warm up the modeler tones a good bit.
 
Spencer4hire said:
I want to try and clarify a little about the sound/tone of the different boards.
Some people are saying what difference does it make if you have to set the knobs at different positions to get the same sound but what I am saying I
that with the defective/improper loaded board it never sounds like it should.
The amps sound like they are bound up and all the tone and power can't get out. Regarding the Egnater amp I am sure Bruce knew what parts to put in his amps. Randall not so much.

I hear you loud and clear on this one. There was a similiar discusion on this topic in another thread a while back. I would like to know if it is just a sweep thing or if it is a your not getting all there is thing.
Reason I want to know is this: if it is a sweep thing and it kicks in later on turn of the knob. Then that means you can not finely tune it as you would if it kicked in earlier on right?
 
I hear you loud and clear on this one. There was a similiar discusion on this topic in another thread a while back. I would like to know if it is just a sweep thing or if it is a your not getting all there is thing.
Reason I want to know is this: if it is a sweep thing and it kicks in later on turn of the knob. Then that means you can not finely tune it as you would if it kicked in earlier on right?

Exactly my thoughts.. if it is just a sweep issue and the tone is still the same, I am ok where I am right now around 2 pm with the presence. However, if it is a "not getting all there is" tone thing or clarity thing then this would be good to know.
 
Kapo_Polenton said:
I hear you loud and clear on this one. There was a similiar discusion on this topic in another thread a while back. I would like to know if it is just a sweep thing or if it is a your not getting all there is thing.
Reason I want to know is this: if it is a sweep thing and it kicks in later on turn of the knob. Then that means you can not finely tune it as you would if it kicked in earlier on right?

Exactly my thoughts.. if it is just a sweep issue and the tone is still the same, I am ok where I am right now around 2 pm with the presence. However, if it is a "not getting all there is" tone thing or clarity thing then this would be good to know.
Let me describe it this way old RM100=low fidelity New RM100= high fidelity.
When I got my first RM100 my sons nicely told me it sounded like crap so when I got my new RM100 they were blown away with the difference in sound and tone. Same cabinet and same tubes and same modules.
 
In that case, I'm definitely interested in getting this done, whether I can do it myself or I need to send the board to Rob (I would balk at sending the whole amp though).
 
Yeah would be good to know if it is just the pots that need changing vs. anything else on that board..
 
Whoopysnorp said:
In that case, I'm definitely interested in getting this done, whether I can do it myself or I need to send the board to Rob (I would balk at sending the whole amp though).
Rob has my board. I will give an update when I get it back and reinstalled in the amp. No need to send the whole amp as the board is easily removed from the amp and I am not experienced with taking amps apart and I removed mine.
 
For all those who are interested and inquiring, here is the correct specs for the Presence/Density PCB:

Presence Pot: B10K
Density Pot: A1M
Density Cap: 472 (250V)
Presence Cap: 104 (250V)
Electrolytic Cap: 100uF (100V)
Resistor: 56K (1/2W)

You can send the PCB (not the entire amp) in the pictures to me and have your boards "corrected" for $40 if you are uncomfortable doing the work yourself. This price includes replacing the pots, upgrading the caps to WIMA Polypropylene caps and same-day Priority shipping. Just be sure to mark the outside of your box "Presence/Density PCB" and I'll have it out the door the same day it arrives.

Also, be sure to note the two connectors you unplug from it a label them for when the board returns.

Feel free to email me at info@jadedfaithmods with any inquiries.
 
Hey Rob, very stand up of you to post the values for the DIY'ers among us rather than hoarding it as a secret to make a buck! Much appreciated kind sir.. 8)
 
My pleasure and glad to help in any way I can. The few I have done are a little tricky and the components didn't want to come free very easily, so just use some added caution if/when you do the changes.

It should take about 30 minutes if all goes well. I am always available if you have any questions , need help or just want the job done for you.
 
I just wanted to update everyone. I received my corrected/modded board from Rob @ JadedFaith (quick turn around. Thanks Rob!) and what a difference! The old RM100 sounds waaayyy better! So much more open sounding and no more woof. If you don't think your RM100 sounds right I think this is the first thing you look at.
 
Rob, when you say the cap values are 472 and 104, is that .472 uF and .104 uF respectively?
 
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