Just received the KH-2...HUGE PROBLEM!!!

Synergy/MTS Forum

Help Support Synergy/MTS Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

usrname

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2006
Messages
67
Reaction score
0
Location
NW Indiana
Ok, I fired up the KH-2 with my RM20 and it powered up but the volume was way too low for where the level was set - gain and level were halfway, which usually blows me out of the room! Plus no real increase in gain with it all the way up. So, I tried my other mods and all is well. Then, I swapped tubes and same problem. I then start wiggling the module around and the full sound would cut in and out.

I tried tightening all the way, tightening it halfway, and also tried not tightening at all, which made it cut out completely and make a strange high-pitched sound. The only way I could get it to act normal was to push in the center of the module, but as soon as I let go, it would act up again.

It seems as if it's not able to go in all the way. I compared it back to back with the Grail and it looks like the board is shorter. I've heard of people having similar problems and fixing with solder, but will this fix the problem I'm describing? Has anyone else had a problem with a shorter board? Can I extend the contacts in some way? My warranty options are few as I bought it used, so what can I do? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks fellas!

BTW, when I could get the KH-2 to fire up, it sounded great - like what I've been looking for! :cry:
 
So here is an experience I had that is NOT what you are going to want to hear...

I had a Egnater Single Channel VX module that had the same shorter card that your KH2 does. I had problems with it non-stop in my RM4, if it would even turn on at all. It worked fine every time in an RM50 I had at the time and when I got my first RM100 it was good in there too. I have since sold the RM50, swapped my rack rig for a second RM100 head and sold the VX.

I tried the solder fix, had Pete look it over and Bruce Egnater himself spent time on it and even replaced several parts to make it up to date with current VX specs. Nothing ever solved the issues with using it in my RM4 though. It occasionally did work in there, but in the end it was just a shorter card and not playing well with that one piece of MTS gear. One thing I can suggest it rubbing a pencil eraser across the contacts did get me some use out of it in the RM4 from time to time.

Sorry to bear bad news, but that was my experience.
 
Well, I did buy it used, so I took a gamble, but this is the first time I've had a problem like this, and I have owned at least 15 modules and 4 MTS amps. So, I would say the odds are pretty good. :lol:

It is a bit disappointing to know that you can't fully count on this system 100%, but I think that goes with the territory of having separate components like this. Had I bought it brand new, I know I could have gotten a replacement, guaranteed, and that's what's cool about Randall.
 
Well, I tried almost every solution I found on the forum, save for cleaning the connector inside the amp as I didn't have a problem with any of my other modules, so I didn't think it was necessary. I cleaned the contacts on the module itself, cleaned the tube sockets and worked the tubes in and out, and cleaned the gain pot.

The only think that worked was putting a thin layer of soler on the contacts. I tried one side first, which didn't work, then both sides and that seemed to do the trick. However, if I move the module at all, the problem returns, so I have to keep it from moving, once I have it to where it will work.

I've been jamming with it for the last hour and I can get a good range of tones. I found the sweetest Marshall tone with the treble from four o'clock to full on! I really think the key to this modue is the treble pot. Anyway it works for now, I'll report back if anything changes. Thanks to everyone that replied! Rock on! :twisted:
 
that was gonna be my next suggestion, more solder , i 've heard of xtc's having your problem and that was the fix, kinda hillbilly but it works, like you said being that so many parts are removable and all things may not fit as well in some as others
 
I've had about 15 modules and a couple of Egnater M4's.

My Randall Blackface older version was too short for my Dual M4.

Hilly told me, the module is fine, but you DO need to sell it because the length isn't perfect..

:(
 
What kind of length difference are we talking about here, that would make a difference?

1mm? 2mm?

Is the length different usually on Egnater modules or Randall modules?
 
One other thing to try would be to take the module out of the carrier and see how many washers are between the pots and the carrier. I've seen anywhere from none to three per pot... this seems to 'push' the back end out a little bit. Might be worth a shot. I would almost bet that module had been opened up and they left the washers out...

Pete
 
okstrat said:
One other thing to try would be to take the module out of the carrier and see how many washers are between the pots and the carrier. I've seen anywhere from none to three per pot... this seems to 'push' the back end out a little bit. Might be worth a shot. I would almost bet that module had been opened up and they left the washers out...

Pete

I can see the washers between the faceplate and pots and there are two each. Would adding a third throw off the screw alignment?
 
Faceplate then carrier Then pots. We're worried about between the pots and carrier. If there are already two per between the CARRIER and the pots, then it's probably ok.
 
Yeah, that's what I meant; between the carrier and the pots. I'll probably try a third washer to see if that impoves the stability, because if I even touch the module, after getting it to work, it will cut off again.
 
Top